• More than 20 food stands under one roof, so each kid can pick a different snack and you pay at each counter
• Sweet stands too, including a puff-pastry bakery and a coffee-and-cake counter, for kids who skip the ham and oysters
• Evening tables can be booked online in two slots, 8pm to 10pm and 10pm to midnight, for groups of up to 5

A 1916 iron-and-glass market hall beside Plaza Mayor, now home to more than 20 food stands instead of grocers. Kids can peer at fish laid out on ice, point at stacked fruit, and pick their own small bites: croquetas, meatballs, a mini pizza or a pastry.

More than 7 million people visit each year, so it suits a quick grazing stop more than a long sit-down meal.