When the city gets loud, these are the green spaces we head for: somewhere to run, roll down a hill or follow peacocks. Some are lawns for a picnic and a ball game. Others earn the trip with a hedge maze, almond trees in pink bloom or river fountains. Here's what we checked, from the Botanical Garden to Dehesa de la Villa.
El Retiro spreads 125 hectares of lawns, shady paths and formal gardens around a big rowing lake, watched over by the Alfonso XII monument. Kids hunt for the Fallen Angel statue, peer into the restored Monkey Pit from the old royal menagerie, and watch puppets at the Teatro de Títeres. Playgrounds of different sizes are spread through the park, and the wide paved paths suit scooters, skates and bikes.
El Capricho is a duchess's 18th-century garden full of follies: a laurel hedge maze, a small brick fort, a boathouse on a winding canal, temples and fountains. Kids hunt for black swans, ducks and red squirrels and try to get lost in the maze. It is a walking garden, so balls, bikes, scooters, picnics and dogs stay outside.
Casa de Campo is the city's biggest park: 1,535 hectares of pine and oak woodland west of the river. Families come for the lake, where you can rent a rowing boat, and for a string of play areas with a castle, a pirate ship, a giant rope pyramid, zip lines and a long tube slide. A flat 4 km nature trail follows a stream away from the lake.
A walled garden beside the Prado holding more than 5,500 plant species from around the world, on terraces that step up the slope. Kids find about 1,500 trees, some of them centuries old, a terrace of bonsai and greenhouses to walk through. It is a living museum, not a park: paths only, no bikes, scooters, balls or picnics, so it suits curious kids more than runners.
Twenty hectares of romantic gardens below the Royal Palace, laid out so a long lawn climbs straight up to the palace facade. Peacocks wander the paths, two big old fountains mark the central avenue, and shady winding walks lead off on both sides. It is one of the quietest green spaces in the center, with a café terrace and public toilets inside.
Madrid Río runs more than 10 km along the Manzanares, on land freed up when the M-30 ring road went underground. Kids get 17 play areas built from wood and hemp rope, with spider webs, hanging bridges and a big zip line, plus a hill of giant slides and a summer splash beach. Car-free paths suit bikes and scooters, and birds and fish are back in the river.
Almost 100 hectares of English-style garden on the slopes west of Moncloa, with steep lawns, winding paths and a 600-meter artificial stream with a path alongside. The Teleférico cable car leaves from the park for Casa de Campo, an Egyptian temple from the 2nd century BC stands at the southern tip, and three Civil War bunkers still sit near Avenida de Séneca.
Quinta de los Molinos is a 21-hectare former country estate named for its metal Chicago-style windmills. Its south half is an orchard of 1,919 almond trees that turn pink and white in late winter, while the north half has winding paths, ponds and a small palace. The Espacio Abierto inside runs a cultural program for kids and families.
A pine forest inside the city, planted from the time of Isabel II with stone and Aleppo pines and home to more than 70 bird species. Kids follow woodland trails and a botanical path, picnic under the trees, and climb the Cerro de los Locos hill for a sunset view across the city. A few small play areas sit along the park's edges.
Parque Juan Carlos I spreads over 160 hectares around a one-kilometer ring, with a 1.9 km ría crossed by footbridges, a lake, an old olive grove and 19 giant outdoor sculptures. Kids get several play areas, including a wooden pirate ship, plus fountains and water jets, a mini train and bike loans, so it suits a whole morning on wheels.
Parque del Cerro del Tío Pío is a run of rounded grassy hills, the reason locals call it the Siete Tetas. Kids race up and roll down the slopes, ride the bike lane and picnic on the lawns. The lookout at the top faces the whole city skyline, a popular spot at sunset.
Three playgrounds sit around the edges, and a kiosk with a terrace serves drinks.
Parque Forestal de Valdebebas covers 470 hectares of young forest planted to recreate five landscapes of central Spain. Families follow 32 km of paths and 5 km of bike lanes past two lagoons and an artificial river, climb the Laberinto, a wooden spiral that doubles as a lookout, and end up at the hillside metal slides on the east side.
Madrid Río's summer beach has no sand and no pool: three oval water areas in Parque de la Arganzuela, each with its own effect. One is a thin sheet of water to splash through, one has jets shooting up to different heights, and one makes a cloud of mist. Kids run through in swimsuits, and the lawns and loungers around the edges give parents somewhere to sit.
When the city gets loud, these are the green spaces we head for: somewhere to run, roll down a hill or follow peacocks. Some are lawns for a picnic and a ball game. Others earn the trip with a hedge maze, almond trees in pink bloom or river fountains. Here's what we checked, from the Botanical Garden to Dehesa de la Villa.
El Retiro spreads 125 hectares of lawns, shady paths and formal gardens around a big rowing lake, watched over by the Alfonso XII monument. Kids hunt for the Fallen Angel statue, peer into the restored Monkey Pit from the old royal menagerie, and watch puppets at the Teatro de Títeres. Playgrounds of different sizes are spread through the park, and the wide paved paths suit scooters, skates and bikes.
El Capricho is a duchess's 18th-century garden full of follies: a laurel hedge maze, a small brick fort, a boathouse on a winding canal, temples and fountains. Kids hunt for black swans, ducks and red squirrels and try to get lost in the maze. It is a walking garden, so balls, bikes, scooters, picnics and dogs stay outside.
Casa de Campo is the city's biggest park: 1,535 hectares of pine and oak woodland west of the river. Families come for the lake, where you can rent a rowing boat, and for a string of play areas with a castle, a pirate ship, a giant rope pyramid, zip lines and a long tube slide. A flat 4 km nature trail follows a stream away from the lake.
A walled garden beside the Prado holding more than 5,500 plant species from around the world, on terraces that step up the slope. Kids find about 1,500 trees, some of them centuries old, a terrace of bonsai and greenhouses to walk through. It is a living museum, not a park: paths only, no bikes, scooters, balls or picnics, so it suits curious kids more than runners.
Twenty hectares of romantic gardens below the Royal Palace, laid out so a long lawn climbs straight up to the palace facade. Peacocks wander the paths, two big old fountains mark the central avenue, and shady winding walks lead off on both sides. It is one of the quietest green spaces in the center, with a café terrace and public toilets inside.
Madrid Río runs more than 10 km along the Manzanares, on land freed up when the M-30 ring road went underground. Kids get 17 play areas built from wood and hemp rope, with spider webs, hanging bridges and a big zip line, plus a hill of giant slides and a summer splash beach. Car-free paths suit bikes and scooters, and birds and fish are back in the river.
Almost 100 hectares of English-style garden on the slopes west of Moncloa, with steep lawns, winding paths and a 600-meter artificial stream with a path alongside. The Teleférico cable car leaves from the park for Casa de Campo, an Egyptian temple from the 2nd century BC stands at the southern tip, and three Civil War bunkers still sit near Avenida de Séneca.
Quinta de los Molinos is a 21-hectare former country estate named for its metal Chicago-style windmills. Its south half is an orchard of 1,919 almond trees that turn pink and white in late winter, while the north half has winding paths, ponds and a small palace. The Espacio Abierto inside runs a cultural program for kids and families.
A pine forest inside the city, planted from the time of Isabel II with stone and Aleppo pines and home to more than 70 bird species. Kids follow woodland trails and a botanical path, picnic under the trees, and climb the Cerro de los Locos hill for a sunset view across the city. A few small play areas sit along the park's edges.
Parque Juan Carlos I spreads over 160 hectares around a one-kilometer ring, with a 1.9 km ría crossed by footbridges, a lake, an old olive grove and 19 giant outdoor sculptures. Kids get several play areas, including a wooden pirate ship, plus fountains and water jets, a mini train and bike loans, so it suits a whole morning on wheels.
Parque del Cerro del Tío Pío is a run of rounded grassy hills, the reason locals call it the Siete Tetas. Kids race up and roll down the slopes, ride the bike lane and picnic on the lawns. The lookout at the top faces the whole city skyline, a popular spot at sunset.
Three playgrounds sit around the edges, and a kiosk with a terrace serves drinks.
Parque Forestal de Valdebebas covers 470 hectares of young forest planted to recreate five landscapes of central Spain. Families follow 32 km of paths and 5 km of bike lanes past two lagoons and an artificial river, climb the Laberinto, a wooden spiral that doubles as a lookout, and end up at the hillside metal slides on the east side.
Madrid Río's summer beach has no sand and no pool: three oval water areas in Parque de la Arganzuela, each with its own effect. One is a thin sheet of water to splash through, one has jets shooting up to different heights, and one makes a cloud of mist. Kids run through in swimsuits, and the lawns and loungers around the edges give parents somewhere to sit.